One of the Best New Restaurants of 2021 so far

This old-school downtown pizzeria (by the slice, paper plates, glass shakers of crushed chile) is a first-rate addition to the city’s pizza scene. Tanner Locust, the pizzaiolo, employs marathon fermentations of two-plus days to build a flavorful, pillowy dough that along its puffy crust lip eats like a soft, yeasty bread. Locust uses a tall deck oven to blaze, for instance, a properly saucy grandma square and a rich orange vodka slice. Wings are plump and slicked with potent sauce. Behind the counter, Locust finishes slices with grated cheese and plenty of basil. (Full pies are also available.)

His best slice? White with a faintly funky cheese blend, sesame seeds, and the sweetness of caramelized onions that melt into pizza almost like jam. This slice is already one of the most memorable pizzas in town — and Locust is yet to fully integrate his wood oven and unleash all of his pizzas.